What is Cut in Gems and Diamonds?

Before buying gems and diamonds you are often advised to look at the five Cs: colour, cut, clarity, carat weight and certificate. Out of these most bewildering is cut. To add to this bewilderment is confusion between cut and shape. Let us journey into the world of precious stones to find out exactly what is cut in gems and diamonds.

Cut refers to the method that is employed by a gem or diamond professional in faceting. The number of facets and how each facet is set in specific proportion and dimension is the subject matter of faceting. The arrangement of facets influences the fire and sparkle in a gem or diamond. By using a specific cutting method, these professionals attempt to enhance brilliance by allowing natural or artificial light to enter through the surface of the gem and reflect back to the naked eye. When I said, enhance it means that the gem already has brilliance and the cut only improves this inherent quality. Most jewellers value gem by its reflecting quality. If a gem fails to reflect back brilliance of fire then the gem is assumed to be poorly cut or opaque in nature.

Shape, on the other hand refers to the general outward appearance of a gem displaying an overall outline for a viewer. There are three types of cut spawning a plethora of shapes. Let me out line the type of cuts and sample of shapes each such cut generates:

1. Step Cut: These are incisions into the gemstone resulting in a series of steps along its surface. In a step-cut you will feel like as of you are climbing up or down, that is when you fondle the facets. This effect is facilitated by arranging facets in rows such that it stimulates a mirrored staircase. Square and rectangular are general shapes born out of step cut. Emerald gemstone is often cut in this manner giving rise to the practice of using emerald as synonymous with step cut. Baguette and cushion are other shapes coming out of step cut. Asscher shape patented by Royal Asscher Diamond Company is considered by analysts as most attractive and inimitable shape into which diamonds can be cut.

2. Brilliant Cut: In this method facets are farming outward from the centre of a gem in a pre-determined angle to facilitate internal reflection. Consequently light entering into a diamond spreads out and stimulates a ball of brilliance that escapes out in rays of light. Brilliant cut is often used to magnify the natural brilliance by several folds. Round shape is the primary result of this cut. By the way about 75% of diamonds are sold as round brilliant. Notable other shapes include, but not limited to, oval, navette and heart.

3. Mixed Cut: Beauty of step cut and brilliance of round cut is synthesised in a mixed cut that employs both methods in measured terms. Mixed cut is resorted to when it is necessary to reduce the visibility of inherent flaw or defect in a gem and increase its sparkle. Princess is the most sought after shape arising out of mixed cut. Trilliant and radiant are two shapes in which gems can be facetted easily. There are quite a number of gems available in fancy shapes emanating from mixed cut.

Muthu Ashraff

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