Monday 10 September 2012

What an Alloy does for Gold Jewellery?

Pure gold is too soft and brittle to fabricate jewellery. Hence, several types of alloys are used. Few of these alloys are well known such as silver and copper. Many other alloys, though not widely known are commonly used.

Use of Gold Alloy

Metals, minerals and elements functioning as alloys are used for several purposes. A key purpose for its use is to reduce the karatage of the base metal. As I said at the beginning, pure gold at 24 Karat is too soft and brittle for making jewellery and must be reduced to lesser karatage. Second reason for using alloy is to get required shade of colour. Adding mechanical properties such as strength and hardness is the third reason. Fourth, alloys enhance fabricability of jewellery by affording malleability, ductility and solderability. Malleability relates to the property of being worked into a shape without breaking whereas ductility relates to the propensity to be drawn into thin wire without breaking. Solderability defines the ease of joining. Finally alloys help in usability of gold jewellery in the hands of the ultimate user. Withstanding bending, breaking or cracking is a key benefit afforded to the user.

In using alloys the jewellery industry must avoid banned or discouraged elements. Use of lead is banned throughout the world due to poisoning. In similar vein European countries have given blanket warning over the use of nickel. Let me give you a full canvas of alloys approved and commonly used in the gold jewellery industry by listing the name of metal, minerals and elements and their main functionality:

1. Copper: Malleability, ductility, hardness, redness and pinkish tone

2. Silver: Malleability, glossiness and greenish sheen

3. Platinum: Grey whitishness, hardness and strength

4. Palladium: Added features to platinum with more silvery colour, softness; density and malleability

5. Zinc: Used extensively to aid fluidity, solderability and as whitening agent

6. Rhodium: Used mainly as protective whitish coating for white gold jewellery giving it perfect hue and long term use

7. Chromium: Whiteness, polished surface, density and hardness

8. Manganese: Grey-whitish glint

9. Iridium: Grain refinement and silvery -whitish tint

10. Cadmium: Used to vary green tint as well as to enhance solderability

11. Iron: Brittle alloy facilitating blue colour

12. Cobalt: Grain refiner used to support heat resistance

13. Silicon: Used mainly for fluidity

14. Tin: Sparingly used in soldering and as metal to metal connector

Muthu Ashraff

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